Why do you need to grade difficulty?
The birth and development of the rock climbing difficulty level is to meet the needs of geographical communication and competition measurement. For example, a rock climber comes to an unfamiliar climbing site. He needs to have a rough idea of ​​the overall difficulty in order to choose the area that suits him most cost-effectively. On the other hand, the difficulty level can also allow players to accurately measure their own strength and compare their strengths and weaknesses with common standards to determine the training direction. The determination of the level of the race route can also make the game more open to the players and the audience.
Similar to gymnastics, diving, etc., rock climbing is also classified on the basis of technical difficulty. However, the rock climbing movement has diversity and variability, and there are no rules to follow; each rock wall presents a different climbing route for each match; the routes, fulcrum, and fulcrum layout are similar. Therefore, the difficulty rating of rock climbing is actually the accumulated experience of rock climbers passed down from generation to generation. It is a subjective feeling to a greater extent, and it is this feeling that everyone has recognized that forms the rating rules we use now.
United States YDS standard division rules
Now commonly used is the US YOSEMITE level standard. In the 1950s, American rock climbers divided the mountains and rock walls into six levels depending on the steepness and difficulty of climbing. Level 1 is level walking; Level 2 is trekking over terrain; Level 3 is rope seldom used almost without protection; Level 4 is rope that may require rope protection. May be necessary); Level 5 is technical rock climbing, which belongs to our category of climbing; Level 6 is direct aid climbing.
Our main activities are covered in Level 5. There are subdivisions among the five levels. Of course, 5.1 is the simplest, 5.2 is a little bit harder, and the larger the number after the decimal point, the harder it is. In terms of technical difficulty, beginners can climb 5.4, and a little practice can quickly reach 5.8. Of course, this depends on different qualifications and cannot be generalized. In the age when athletics and sports climbing have not yet risen, and modern climbing shoes have not yet been born, people set the highest difficulty at that time to be 5.10. It seems that it has reached 10, and it is a perfect realm, but now the level standard has long been pushed forward and has reached 5.14 or even 5.15. One thing to be clear is that 5.10 and 5.14 are by no means the branches below 5.1. They are even bigger than 5.9 and even harder.
After 5.10, each level is divided into four abcd items, or 5.11a is simple 5.11 (easy 5.11, 5.11), 5.11bc is medium 5.11, 5.11d is difficult 5.11 (hard 5.11, 5.11+). As we move forward, the nuances of the difficulty of the route will become more pronounced, and the more we need to strive for excellence. The difference between one letter and the other may be a very difficult gap. It may be the difference between the best player and a good player.
How to determine the difficulty level of a route
Specific to a route, how to determine its difficulty? Simply put, a climber with considerable climbing experience, after climbing the route, thinks it is harder than his previous climb of 5.10, simpler than 5.12, and almost as difficult as 5.11. Then he thinks this The route is 5.11; if the player is the hardest to climb 5.12, after completing the route, it is difficult to climb any route, then he has reason to think this route is 5.13 or higher. If he fails to complete this route, he cannot make an evaluation. At most, he can only infer from the perspective of the route, the size of the fulcrum, etc. It cannot be regarded as valid.
Assume that this player has already climbed many difficulties and different styles of lines. He is experienced in rating. His rating is consistent with the majority's point of view. This line is obtained according to this unified view. Rating. Of course, there are many routes where the difficulty level is changed by the later climbers, which is based on the opinion of the majority. Difficulty level is to be precise, refined and more and more unified in this constant exchange and discussion.
Up until now, there have been many unifying routes. Climbers can build up experience by climbing these routes. Knowing what kind of feeling is 5.9 and what kind of feeling is 5.11. Constantly climbing more routes can be revised continuously. Subjective feelings of bias. For example, if a climber is not good at climbing a crack, he climbs some of the accepted 5.10 cracks and feels more difficult than the 5.11 face route he had climbed before. Then he can know that the crack climb is his weakness. He developed a crack route and he should adjust the difficulty level of this route appropriately.
Other system grading standards and comparison
Corresponding to U.S. standards, the United Kingdom, France, etc. also have self-contained standards. The international rock-climbing community has made an integrated comparison of this and will make world-wide exchanges more convenient. The newly-developed branch of rock climbing - the V0-V15 grading standard adopted by the bouldering sports also has a comparison between the actual difficulty and the difficulty level of the YOSEMITE route, which will not be repeated here.
Now, it is generally believed that the 5.12 player is a medium level, 5.13 is in the advanced stage, and the top player's strongest climbing ability is 5.14 or higher. There is no limit to the movement, and the human body has no limit. The level of the world's most difficult route has been slowly but constantly improving. In the future, there may be a 5.16 route waiting for us to develop and complete it. It is the goal of a rock climber to constantly make unreachable routes possible.
Information on this page was provided by Zhao Kai January 2003
The birth and development of the rock climbing difficulty level is to meet the needs of geographical communication and competition measurement. For example, a rock climber comes to an unfamiliar climbing site. He needs to have a rough idea of ​​the overall difficulty in order to choose the area that suits him most cost-effectively. On the other hand, the difficulty level can also allow players to accurately measure their own strength and compare their strengths and weaknesses with common standards to determine the training direction. The determination of the level of the race route can also make the game more open to the players and the audience.
Similar to gymnastics, diving, etc., rock climbing is also classified on the basis of technical difficulty. However, the rock climbing movement has diversity and variability, and there are no rules to follow; each rock wall presents a different climbing route for each match; the routes, fulcrum, and fulcrum layout are similar. Therefore, the difficulty rating of rock climbing is actually the accumulated experience of rock climbers passed down from generation to generation. It is a subjective feeling to a greater extent, and it is this feeling that everyone has recognized that forms the rating rules we use now.
United States YDS standard division rules
Now commonly used is the US YOSEMITE level standard. In the 1950s, American rock climbers divided the mountains and rock walls into six levels depending on the steepness and difficulty of climbing. Level 1 is level walking; Level 2 is trekking over terrain; Level 3 is rope seldom used almost without protection; Level 4 is rope that may require rope protection. May be necessary); Level 5 is technical rock climbing, which belongs to our category of climbing; Level 6 is direct aid climbing.
Our main activities are covered in Level 5. There are subdivisions among the five levels. Of course, 5.1 is the simplest, 5.2 is a little bit harder, and the larger the number after the decimal point, the harder it is. In terms of technical difficulty, beginners can climb 5.4, and a little practice can quickly reach 5.8. Of course, this depends on different qualifications and cannot be generalized. In the age when athletics and sports climbing have not yet risen, and modern climbing shoes have not yet been born, people set the highest difficulty at that time to be 5.10. It seems that it has reached 10, and it is a perfect realm, but now the level standard has long been pushed forward and has reached 5.14 or even 5.15. One thing to be clear is that 5.10 and 5.14 are by no means the branches below 5.1. They are even bigger than 5.9 and even harder.
After 5.10, each level is divided into four abcd items, or 5.11a is simple 5.11 (easy 5.11, 5.11), 5.11bc is medium 5.11, 5.11d is difficult 5.11 (hard 5.11, 5.11+). As we move forward, the nuances of the difficulty of the route will become more pronounced, and the more we need to strive for excellence. The difference between one letter and the other may be a very difficult gap. It may be the difference between the best player and a good player.
How to determine the difficulty level of a route
Specific to a route, how to determine its difficulty? Simply put, a climber with considerable climbing experience, after climbing the route, thinks it is harder than his previous climb of 5.10, simpler than 5.12, and almost as difficult as 5.11. Then he thinks this The route is 5.11; if the player is the hardest to climb 5.12, after completing the route, it is difficult to climb any route, then he has reason to think this route is 5.13 or higher. If he fails to complete this route, he cannot make an evaluation. At most, he can only infer from the perspective of the route, the size of the fulcrum, etc. It cannot be regarded as valid.
Assume that this player has already climbed many difficulties and different styles of lines. He is experienced in rating. His rating is consistent with the majority's point of view. This line is obtained according to this unified view. Rating. Of course, there are many routes where the difficulty level is changed by the later climbers, which is based on the opinion of the majority. Difficulty level is to be precise, refined and more and more unified in this constant exchange and discussion.
Up until now, there have been many unifying routes. Climbers can build up experience by climbing these routes. Knowing what kind of feeling is 5.9 and what kind of feeling is 5.11. Constantly climbing more routes can be revised continuously. Subjective feelings of bias. For example, if a climber is not good at climbing a crack, he climbs some of the accepted 5.10 cracks and feels more difficult than the 5.11 face route he had climbed before. Then he can know that the crack climb is his weakness. He developed a crack route and he should adjust the difficulty level of this route appropriately.
Other system grading standards and comparison
Corresponding to U.S. standards, the United Kingdom, France, etc. also have self-contained standards. The international rock-climbing community has made an integrated comparison of this and will make world-wide exchanges more convenient. The newly-developed branch of rock climbing - the V0-V15 grading standard adopted by the bouldering sports also has a comparison between the actual difficulty and the difficulty level of the YOSEMITE route, which will not be repeated here.
Now, it is generally believed that the 5.12 player is a medium level, 5.13 is in the advanced stage, and the top player's strongest climbing ability is 5.14 or higher. There is no limit to the movement, and the human body has no limit. The level of the world's most difficult route has been slowly but constantly improving. In the future, there may be a 5.16 route waiting for us to develop and complete it. It is the goal of a rock climber to constantly make unreachable routes possible.
Information on this page was provided by Zhao Kai January 2003
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